DNA Aconcagua Update: The Guides

Today I thought I would write a bit about the local guides. But, first, a
business item:

As some of you know, there is a web site www.aconcaguanow.com that has a live Web cam set up here at base camp. The web cam takes a new picture every 3 minutes. The DNA climbers wanted me to let you know about this site so that you can check it out and, more important, they want to schedule a time after their summit push and return to base camp for them to stand by the web cam as a group so that you can see their faces, live, from the mountain. When they are coming back to base camp in a few days I will give you specifics about when to watch.

Now, the guides. There are three levels of guides on Aconcagua: the trekking guides who take people as fas as Plaza de Mulas/base camp. Mountain guides who go farther up the mountain, but do not lead groups, and high mountain guides who take people to the summit and can lead groups. There are also the porters, who carry gear (for example, for our group, tents and food; or personal gear for climbers if they are paid to do so) from Plaza de Mulas up to the high camps and the muleteers, as mules carry all group gear as high
as base camp.

First, the trekking guide that led Reyna and Malcolm, and had to leave when they did: His name is Leo and, when he’s not guiding on Aconcagua he teaches physical education at a school in Mendoza. This is fairly common, according to Pepe our lead guide: people will work in the school system during the fall, winter, and spring, and then guide or work on the mountain during the summer season. High season here on the mountain is Dec 15 – Jan 30, similar to school summer vacation.

Leo is maybe in his mid-thirties, with dark features, 5’7″ and solidly built. Not heavy by any means but, man, should you see his quads! He has to be an incredible down-hiller! While he is working as a trekking guide, he has been to the summit about a half dozen times. He took fantastic care of the youth and surely was a good role model for them. Hiking up to base camp the other day, I stayed in back with Leo and Reyna and Malcolm (at first to ensure that they didn’t feel left behind, and later because the slightly slower pace was much better for me! I have to admit) but it gave me a chance to visit with Leo a bit, as his English is quite good (as in the case with all of the guides).

He spoke about how much he appreciated us providing this opportunity for the youth. I explained it was a group effort on the part of DNA and Aymara, with support from TeleTech for the foundation and thus how grateful WE were for everyone’s work and coordination to make it happen. Leo said that it was frustrating to him that Argentina was a rich country with so many poor people. He said that some in his country are “selfish,” which bothers him. I explained that it is the same in the States, but that not everyone is that way. Leo is searching for ways to have a positive influence in his country and still be able to support himself, have a place to eat, and food to eat. A universal struggle, especially for those truly trying to do good in the world. I think his work as a guide, helping and serving as a role model for Reyna and Malcolm certainly did put good into the world. Into his country.

The guides that are still with the group, high on the mountain, are Pepe our lead guide, Weynie (female) a high mountain guide, Fernando another high mountain guide and, just joining the group yesterday morning as the DNA group left base camp, Victor (more on Victor later).

Pepe has been guiding on Aconcagua for 8 years and has dozens of summits. He is probably in his mid-thirties, maybe 5’7″ and slender, with dark hair, brown eyes, and a beard. He told us that he has a long-time girlfriend in Mendoza, who lives just a few blocks from him home there – she’s been with him the same 8 years that he’s been guiding – and he hopes to get married in a year or two. Like Leo, Pepe teaches PE at a school in Mendoza when he’s not spending his summers on the mountain. Pepe told me that he hopes to not have to guide for too much longer, as his knees are starting to bother him. Certainly years of going up, and coming down, thousands of feet on this mountain could take a toll on anyone’s knees.

Pepe runs a tight ship – which is wonderful and much appreciated by Marshall. If Pepe says that the group is to eat at 9 a.m. and leave at 11 a.m., you had better be there. This is critical to keep a group of our size moving, and will be especially critical on summit day, when every minute will be valuable, and no one will want to be waiting around for someone who is tardy. Pepe is also very good about controlling the pace of the climbers, typically taking the lead of the group and setting the pace, not allowing anyone to “show boat” and walk faster in front of him. He is very smart, and knows that all climbers – no matter how fit or how much experience they have – must conserve their energy and take the time needed to acclimate. Marshall is very appreciative of this leadership quality in Pepe as well, as he definitely agrees with this approach. Mountaineering is so much about patience. It is not a race (not an
ultra-run) and requires respect for the mountain, the weather, and the altitude. But… don’t think that Pepe is some kind of hard-ass. He is very quick to smile, laugh, and joke. Several of the DNA climbers have a well-developed sense of humor, often joking with each other and the guides, and Pepe is quick to catch the humor and add his own. He always checks in with
each climber – and even with me – to say good morning, how are you, and make sure that all is okay. He was especially kind to Reyna and Malcolm when they were here, ensuring that the youth had everything that they needed and got the most possible from their experience.

Weynie is only 22 years old but is very mature and grounded. She is a beautiful, fit, strong and intelligent woman who has no trouble leading the group, setting the pace, and keeping everyone on track. Female guides are treated well and respected on the mountain, Weynie told me, although there are not a lot of them. I’m not 100 percent sure I have these numbers right, but I believe that Weynie told me that she is one of only two high-mountain guides on Aconcagua/in all of the country; and there are 10 woman mountain guides; with many more female trekking guides. Weynie worked a season on the other side of Aconcagua (the Polish Glacier side) and, on her day off, did a climb to the top and back in only 18 hours. Amazing. And, that was before she was guide!

Weynie went to school for two years to become a guide, and will take some additional English language training at an institute in Mendoza when she can, although her English is quite good. She also has plans to learn at least one more language. The women in the DNA group are especially glad to have a female guide – a strong role model for young women like Reyna! In addition to her strength, Weynie is very kind and gentle, smiles often, and is “game” for anything. For example, she took on Alex in several games of “Connect Four” – a game she had never heard of, but that didn’t stop her! She also showed her gymnastic skills by doing a cartwheel, with her pack, along the trail to Plaza Francia several days ago, and by taking her turn on the “slack line” that the guides and porters have set up here at base camp. She is agile with amazing balance. Oh, and she’s also learning to play the flute. Yes, Weynie is a real renaissance woman and we’re thrilled to have her as one of the guides of the DNA group on Aconcagua.

The other guide is Fernando, who previously worked as a porter on the mountain as with the park service. The season he was a porter, Fernando said that he was on the mountain for 93 days! I can’t imagine. Fortunately, his girlfriend at the time (he claims to be single now) was on the mountain too, so that helped! He said that he prefers being a guide, as he does get to go off the mountain, and even down into Mendoza, several times a season. I would have to agree! He enjoyed working for the park service, but also prefers guiding – more interaction with people from around the world.

Fernando is probably in his mid-twenties, about 5’10” and very slender, with long brown hair, brown eyes, and thin and gentle face. When we arrived at Plaza de Mulas the other day, Fernando helped Marshall set up our tent (I was tired and busy with other things) – that’s how he is: always watching out for others and helping out where he can. He spent time with Reyna and Malcolm, like the other guides, but it seemed to be more of a fun interaction rather than mentoring – all a good balance for the youth.

Marshall has always had good guides here on Aconcagua. With a high standard, he said that these are the best, most professional group of guides he’s worked with. High praise, as Marshall’s standards are I high. I know that the DNA climbers are in good hands with Pepe, Marshall, Weynie, and Fernando. They will watch out for the DNA climbers and take every precaution necessary to ensure their care.

CLIMBER UPDATE
To come followining radio conversation with Marshall …

MESSAGES FROM THE DNA CLIMBERS
When Victor brought Mike down he also carried hand-written message from some of the climbers for those of you at home. Here they are.

From Jim: Happy birthday Ethan. Seth, good luck at regionals. I love you.
From Gary: I’m feeling better.
From Alex: Julie, Love you and miss you. Feeling strong.
From Bruce: 2nd 16-teener feeling great.
From Robin: Hello Rich, Paul, Mom and Dad. Doing great. Namaste!
From Theresa: Hi to Toasty and Anne who is taking such good care of her
from 16,200 feet in the Argentinean Andes.
From Mick: Sharon, great talking to you yesterday. Love you. To Blackjacket:
Thanks for getting me into the triple bypass. And call Michael and give web
address for climb blog.